We’ve been on the road for a week now and by the time we wake up the rain that started yesterday has finally stopped. All that moisture does make for some cool and eerie views of the misty mountains in the morning.
Before breakfast we take a little walk along the lake shore.
With the weather being a bit more agreeable we are quickly ready to go.
But not before finishing our breakfast.
After breakfast we also say goodbye to the Austrian guys that arrived the evening before. They don’t look particularly fit or soldier-like, so I’m not sure why they are driving these trucks?
But then we are off again for our second attempt to get to Orlovačko. From Eko Selo we immediately turn into a gravel road that should take us up to a plateau from where we’ll be proceeding towards Nevesinje for fuel.
It remains dry and occasionally the sun even manages to peek through the clouds. But still the low hanging clouds are kind of spoiling the views, which is a bit of a shame. The gravel road turns into gravel highway when we reach the top of the plateau.
Along the way we come across this medieval necropolis with large blocks cut from rock and engraved with all sorts of symbols and designs.
The road meanders on towards Nevesinje.
The final stretch towards Nevesinje the road turns into tarmac again. The scenery is still pretty nice and the clouds are breaking up as well. Things are looking up again. Except for these little beauties.
There’s literally thousands of them by the road side. And they are a little skittish. Sofie is riding point and whenever she passes a group of butterflies like these they take to the air, flying right into my path. They are splashing into me and the bike by the dozens. I’m afraid I killed more of them in just a few minutes than I would see back home in Belgium over an entire summer.
When we ride into Nevesinje it is close to 11AM, high time to top up on some cash at the ATM in the center and on fuel at the service station on the road out of town. And then we turn into another gravel road up the mountains. A few drops start falling, then a few more and before we know it it is hosing down with the occasional rumble and lightning. As long as we are riding under the tree cover it is ok, but in the open spaces we get the full grunt of the weather. It comes and goes and occasionally we get a little peak at what would undoubtedly be amazing views in clear weather. The few glimpses we do get are certainly impressive enough.
When we reach tarmac again the rain has eased off. A little patch of gravel in one of the many corners the road makes looks inviting enough to warm up a little and give our bums a rest. When we pull up a guy down an overgrown track about 30m off starts frantically waving us over. We ride over and he sprints up a hill to make pictures of us.
We have a little chat about the riding in the region. He seems to prefer quad bikes. And we exchange email addresses so he can send us his pictures.
Around 2PM we reach Kalinovik and hop into the first bar we come across. Dark clouds are moving in again. While we are sipping on a nice hot tea the heavens start coming down again. It is clear riding up to Orlovačko will not be a good idea today either. Neither will be our plan to visit Sutjeska national park and mount Maglić.
Instead we decide to pick the fastest route into Montenegro. A friend from Podgorica had told us there was a good camp site just across the border on the banks of the Tara river. 2 hours later we arrive at the Bosnian border guards completely soaked. The guy in his nice dry and warm booth shows us no mercy and decides a full check of all paper work is necessary, even though we are leaving the country. We’re let to wait out in the rain while he does his thing.
Sofie had mistakenly also brought the paperwork of her FZ6 and DRZ, but with the mood she is in from the weather she just grabs the first documents she gets her hands on. Either she got lucky and picked the right ones, or the border guard wasn’t really paying as much attention as he was making out to, but we finally get waived through.
At the Montenegrin side across the bridge we’re just as unlucky. We are made to wait until they are done with the 2 cars in front of us. At least they are quick to do their job.
In stead of riding through the check point we turn around and pick the road 20 meters back in no-man’s land that should take us to the camp site. We arrive at Tara Grab where the reception is more than welcoming. All we are after is a hot shower and a warm dry bed so we cop out again and choose a room over the tent. At least we are on time to enjoy beer o’clock near the wood stove at the bar near the river.