Despite the nice comfy bed that Blazo and Marija so kindly offered us, we avoid the temptation to sleep in. It is a working day for our hosts after all. But we’re not allowed to leave before a delicious local breakfast of cheese rolls and pita.
The instructions we had received last night to get out of the city fast proved accurate and efficient. Go left, take a right at the second traffic lights and then straight ahead. Before we know it we’re out of the city and hardly 5 minutes later we’re back in the mountains, surrounded by nature and sheep. The capital of Montenegro is a large village, really.
Our first stop of the day is Bukumirsko Jezero.
The weather remains dry and we are thoroughly enjoying the views and the impressive peaks around us. Next destination is Rikavačko Jezero, a small mountain lake close to the Albanian border.
The road up is pretty nice, a few puddles here and there from the rain of the past days but otherwise in good condition. Despite the odd sheep traffic jam we reach Rikavačko without incidents.
We had learned from Blazo that there are several options to continue from here. There’s a small mountain road that leads further on after the lake. But you need to cross “Wolf stream”, which only weeks ago was still impassable due to the debris washed down from the mountains after the winter. Since we’re not sure the trees and boulders blocking the river crossing have been cleared yet by the lumber jacks that usually operate in this area, we opt for the alternative slab route via Verusa to get to Matesevo and Andrijevica. It turns out to be a good call, as it soon starts pouring down again.
Around lunch time we come across this little trout farm and restaurant. At first sight it looks deserted, but we decide to take a look anyway.
We find the owner reading a newspaper and sipping on some tea. We don’t really understand each other, but sign language is pretty universal. And so are mobile phones. He calls someone and then gives us the phone. It’s a lady who asks us what we need. Some food? No problem! We’re shown to the dining room and the heating is turned up. While we’re getting installed our lunch is still swimming around outside.
But not for long…
When we’re finished with the delicious food this guy turns up.
He can’t seem to find the way out, so we help him a little.
The place also has a very groovy sound system.
The rain is easing up again so we say our goodbyes and hit the road again. It has to be said though that after the past week our definitions of what constitutes a drizzle, a rain and a torrential downpour have changed a little. Our friend in Podgorica had recommended Eko Katun Stavna in the mountains around Andrijevica. We had hoped to have made it a bit further today, but with the current weather we don’t really feel like riding a lot further. A small winding paved road takes us up the mountain. The mist and the trees lend the place a magical atmosphere and we’re taken by surprise when suddenly the wooden cabins of the Katun appear.
The reception is warm and welcoming. We’re set up in a huge cabin where the wood burner is immediately put to good use and every available spot is put to use for drying out our clothes and boots.
We’re ready just in time for beer o’clock.
The elaborate menu offers a wide range of local specialties. We just rely on the suggestions from the owner. We’re not disappointed when the food arrives.
When we get back to our cabin, the wood stove is piping hot and the entire place feels like a banja. At least our clothes and boots will be dry in the morning.
Today’s route:
Elevation:
