Zekova Glava to Tara Grab

The next morning we wake up on the slopes of Zekova Glava mountain to a glorious sun and it is only then that we can appreciate the beauty of the camp spot we chose in the setting darkness last night.

 The second most beautiful camp spot
The second most beautiful camp spot

The air is thick with the scent of mountain flowers covering the pasture around the tent. We didn’t really buy anything suitable for breakfast yesterday in Berane, but it was all part of the plan. We’re on the edge of the Biogradska National Park, not too far off from the Eko Katun Vranjak. A camp site that we discovered last year during the first Montenegro HUBB meeting. They serve excellent breakfast. So we pack up quickly, with a bit of luck we’ll make it there before 8AM.

We retrace the gravel road back down to the little tarmac road we were on yesterday down in the valley. After crossing a little village the road turns into a gravel track, climbing up into the Biograd NP. The route through the forest is pretty nice and we reach Vranjak just in time for breakfast. We’re allowed to join a group of mountain bikers on the large outdoor table. They spent the night here in the wooden huts.

 Breakfast at Eko Katun Vranjak
Breakfast at Eko Katun Vranjak

Breakfast is just as good as we remember it. Priganice with fesh goat’s cheese and honey, accompanied with a big jug of freshly brewed tea.

I have a chat with the chief to inquire about the state of the trails towards Biogradska Jezero. A group of friends passed here a few weeks before and there was still a lot of snow around. He assures me that everything is clear now. So with full tummies we are on our way again. The trail should takes us along some mountain ridges all the way down to the lake. The first section after Vranjak offers some great riding and amazing views.

 View over Eko Katun Vranjak
View over Eko Katun Vranjak

 

 Riding through Biogradsko National Park
Riding through Biogradsko National Park

 

 Rolling hils of Montenegro
Rolling hils of Montenegro

 

 Winding mountain trails
Winding mountain trails

At a certain moment we come upon a steel wire that has been tied across the trail at about 1m above the ground. It has been marked with some plastic ribbons tied to it, to prevent anyone from accidentally riding into it. It is easy to unhook from the pole it is attached to and ride on. It doesn’t take long for us to figure out it was put up by the farmer a little further down in the valley. At the same spot an electrical wire is suspended about 2m above the ground. I’m assuming the farmer would rather not have a jeep or tractor putting him without power because they didn’t spot the wire.

We are having a lot of fun while riding the ridges, but the track turns a lot more muddy and slippery on the descent. There’s a seemingly endless amount of hairpins to negotiate down and Sofie is clearly having a hard time. But after a good amount of sweating and cursing we make it down to the lake. It is as good a place as any to take a little break.

 Down at Biogradsko Jezero
Down at Biogradsko Jezero

 

 

 Biogradsko Jezero
Biogradsko Jezero

 

 This fellow was enjoying the sun too
This fellow was enjoying the sun too

From Biogradsko Jezero we follow Tara canyon again, towards Žabljak, in the opposite direction we rode it last week. But this time the weather is a whole lot better. making the views all the more impressive. In Žabljak we quickly hop into the small supermarket for some pick nick provisions and then it goes up into Durmitor NP to find a nice spot for eating it. We come across a great spot, even before reaching Sedlo pass.

 On to Durmitor!
On to Durmitor!

 

 Found a picknick spot with a view to die for!
Found a picknick spot with a view to die for!

While we’re chilling on the little bench looking out over the valley, Sofie plays around with some of the camera’s more exotic modes.

 Playing around with the camera
Playing around with the camera

 

 Miniature effect of a mountain lake
Miniature effect of a mountain lake

Meanwhile, I spot that a bolt is missing from my luggage rack. We’ll have to find a replacement bolt somewhere, but for now a tie-wrap or 3 makes the whole thing feel very solid again.

We’re riding through Durmitor in the opposite direction from last year. It makes the whole place look very different, even hard to recognize in places. It is actually a succession of 3 mountain valleys that each have their own character and appearance.

 Wild nature at Durmitor
Wild nature at Durmitor

 

 Sedlo pass
Sedlo pass

 

 Impressive views over Durmitor National Park
Impressive views over Durmitor National Park

The landscape is pretty special in all cases. You can see the reason why this is called Sedlo pass in the background. Legend has it that the strangely formed rock formation is the “saddle of god”.

But the most recognizable view in Durmitor is probably this:

 Signature view of Durmitor
Signature view of Durmitor

When we reach the third valley we come across a group of German riders on squeeky clean fully kitted out GSes. A stark contrast to our grimy looking Terras.

 Magnificent mountain range
Magnificent mountain range

In stead of following the road all the way down into Piva canyon, we decide to cut across the mountains at Trsa and hopefully enjoy the views between Sušičko Jezero and Tara Grab that were completely covered in clouds and mist only a week earlier. We are not disappointed.

 Durmitor National Park
Durmitor National Park

 

 Panoramic view over Durmitor NP
Panoramic view over Durmitor NP

 

 Strange landscape at Durmitor
Strange landscape at Durmitor

More fooling around with camera settings.

 Miniature effect yet again
Miniature effect yet again

With all our picture stops it’s already 4:30PM by the time we reach Tara Grab. With the pleasant weather we decide to pitch the tent this time. The grass looks nice enough. The reception is just as welcoming as last time.

If I were using their rafting gear I would check the wet suits carefully before putting them on though. This sneaky bugger was hiding in the shed where they keep the gear.

 Little fellow looking for a nice warm spot
Little fellow looking for a nice warm spot

After another delicious dinner I hang out at the bar with the cook. When I ask him if he knows of any hardware stores to get a new bolt for my luggage rack, he shows me to his own tool shed and tells me I can browse around to see if I can find anything useful. I quickly dig up a bolt of the correct diameter and thread, but it is too long. Unfortunately there’s no better fitting bolts to be found. It is getting dark and I figure that I’ll find a solution for it tomorrow morning. Either cut it shorter or use some spacers,we’ll see…

So for the rest of the evening I hang out sharing Slivas and stories with the cook at the bar.

Today’s route:

Elevation:

Jo Written by:

Roamer, wanderer, nomad, vagabond.



Keen and curious adventurer who feels just as much at home in IT as in the workshop tinkering on bikes. Loves exploring the world, its people and himself, preferably on 2 wheels behind the handlebars of his beloved bike. Lucky to have found a partner in life and on the road to share this with.