Lake Sinevir to Bukovel

We wake up to cloudy skies and it looks like it might rain again any minute. Time to pack up, have some breakfast and then onwards! Today we aim for Bukovel, mostly known as a big ski resort. We had planned a route via some smaller roads on the map, but seeing the condition (or sometimes even non-existance) of what should be a fairly big road on our map, I have my doubts about the feasiblitly.

We set out after saying our goodbyes to Andrej, the nice hotel manager. We had an interesting talk with him yesterday evening while trying to escape the girls who were clearly trying to get us to party with them. He gave us some insight on the current situation in Ukraine and how local people perceive it. He was also quite open on his ambitions and where he wanted to go and that was basically anywhere in Europe as long as it was not Ukraine. He was working hard to reach his goal and I’m certain one day soon he will!

 Potholes!
Potholes!

We leave Sinevir behind and head for the mountains. On the map we have a fairly big road but on Jo’s gps the road is indicated as unpaved road and on mine it’s just non-exitant. Hmm… we decide to go and check it out anyway.

 Roads drying out
Roads drying out

 

 Lada 4WD
Lada 4WD

 

 Beautiful green mountains
Beautiful green mountains

The first part seems promising with clearly freshly laid tarmac.

 Perfect tarmac... will it ever end?
Perfect tarmac… will it ever end?

But then, suddenly, behind a bend, the tarmac disappears.

 And then it ends... gravel!
And then it ends… gravel!

 

 Gravel into the mountains
Gravel into the mountains

 

 Uphill
Uphill

 

 Which way to go?
Which way to go?

The gravel road seems quite ok until it splits up and we don’t know really which way to go. My GPS is completely lost, Jo’s has something that looks like a footpath. We start down the left hand path but when we run into an elderly woman and her grandson and ask for the way to Ust Chorna, they both point in different directions. Not really helpful.

 Looking for the road to Ust Chorna
Looking for the road to Ust Chorna

 

 This is not the right way
This is not the right way

The path we are on seems to deviate to the left further down a little valley and we clearly have to go right. So we turn around to check out the other path.

 Retracing our steps
Retracing our steps

It does look less travelled…

 Trying a different track
Trying a different track

Jo decides to check it out while I turn my bike around. Last nights ‘party’ apparently was a bit too much for me. I clearly did not have enough sleep and I’m not too steady on my feet. And of course, I drop the bike.

 Getting rutted
Getting rutted

 

 Heading down to help a damsel in distress
Heading down to help a damsel in distress

 

 Damsel in distress
Damsel in distress

By that time I’ve had enough. In hindsight nowt, I think Jo’s description sounded worse than what he actually saw, but we decide to have a look at the map again. This stretch of the road is supposed to be quite good but if it continues like this we will never reach Bukovel tonight.

 Love is... checking the map together. The road on the map clearly is no road anymore
Love is… checking the map together. The road on the map clearly is no road anymore

So we decide to retrace our steps and stay on tarmac for the time being.

 Perfect tarmac backtracking
Perfect tarmac backtracking

Well… tarmac is perhaps not the right word…

 Taking the
Taking the ‘main road’ to Bushtyno

 

 Powerline!
Powerline!

 

 Red lada!
Red lada!

 

 Typical village with average Ukranian tarmac
Typical village with average Ukranian tarmac

Back on the main road, we take a short break and Jo notices that some of his constructions are not sturdy enough to withstand the constant beating of the potholes.

 First victim of all the potholes
First victim of all the potholes

By now, the sun is out in full force. The countryside keeps amazing us and we take another turn off the main roads into the mountains. At a certain point, my GPS indicates that I’m off the planned track again. The map is clearly of not much use and we have to ask around again to find the right route. Although we stuck to what seemed the bigger of the gravel roads, a local farmer tells me we missed our turn. We follow his directions and find a small road heading further into the mountains.

 Picknick place
Picknick place

We find a nice picknick spot  under the trees. Compared to the grey clouds this morning, it is getting sunny and warm now.

 Small backroad to Rachiv. Took us a while to find the right track.
Small backroad to Rachiv. Took us a while to find the right track.

We follow the road further into the mountains. On the map it’s a yellow backroad to Rachiv. The road looks like it was paved a long time ago but never maintained. From time to time we spot stretches of tarmac, sometimes really potholed, in most places washed away partly. and then there are stretches where the tarmac has gone completely. We start to realise that our map probably dates back to the times when this road was freshly paved. Since then, it looks like these smaller roads were never maintained are are in very poor condition. That puts the rest of our planned route a bit into perspective as well.

 Gravel track to Rachiv
Gravel track to Rachiv

The road is largely deserted and the higher we get the more stunning the views become.

 Hairpin with stunning views
Hairpin with stunning views

 

 50 shades of green
50 shades of green

 

 Green Carpathian mountains
Green Carpathian mountains

 

 We are greeted by beautiful views
We are greeted by beautiful views

 

 Gravel road to Rachiv
Gravel road to Rachiv

 

 That looks promising on the gps
That looks promising on the gps

 

 This road vas paved once, probably in Stalin
This road vas paved once, probably in Stalin’s days

 

 Gravel track to Rachiv
Gravel track to Rachiv

 

 This used to be tarmac, a long time ago...
This used to be tarmac, a long time ago…

 

 Green hills
Green hills

 

 View over the Carpathian mountain range
View over the Carpathian mountain range

 

 Enjoying the semi-gravel towards Rachiv
Enjoying the semi-gravel towards Rachiv

 

 What a place to live!
What a place to live!

The road takes us over the mountains and then down to Rachiv. As we make our way down, the road becomes a bit more technical with a few tight bends and more washed out tarmac.

 Nearing Rachiv
Nearing Rachiv

 

 Seeing some human presence again
Seeing some human presence again

 

 Busy town of Rachiv
Busy town of Rachiv

In Rachiv, we take the main road towards Bukovel, our aim for tonight.

 En route to Bukovel
En route to Bukovel

 

 One of many beautifully decorated orthodox churches
One of many beautifully decorated orthodox churches

 

 En route to Bukovel
En route to Bukovel

 

 En route to Bukovel
En route to Bukovel

 

 En route to Bukovel, best stretch of tarmac we saw in Ukraine
En route to Bukovel, best stretch of tarmac we saw in Ukraine

 

 Best tarmac we
Best tarmac we’ve seen in Ukraine

We arrive in Bukovel around 5PM and are taken aback a bit by the touristy feel of the entire place. It reminds me of any typical ski resort in France, very busy in winter time but totally deserted when there’s no snow. Apart from a few groups of school children on a school outing, there is no one about.

 Riding into Bukovel
Riding into Bukovel

 

 Looking for a hotel
Looking for a hotel

We head into what we think is the center and ride straight to the biggest hotel in view. On our wishlist: hot shower, secure parking. The rest would be a plus.

 We have a winner
We have a winner

And we’re not disappointed by what the rest offers!

 Our posh hotel room in Bukovel
Our posh hotel room in Bukovel

 

 Terra
Terra’s hiding behind some big wheels

Shower, laundry and then into town to find something to eat. We walk around for while and find some very interesting constructions. This one looks more like it would fit in nicely somewhere in Barcelona next to Gaudi’s other buildings.

 Gaudi inspired hotel
Gaudi inspired hotel

 

 Creative gardening
Creative gardening

We are starting to get hungry but it seems there’s not much available. Most places are closed or under construction. We find the only place that’s open and serves food so we settle for some shaslik and beer!

 Beer O
Beer O’Clock

 

 Day 10 - June 15 - Route
Day 10 – June 15 – Route

 

 Day 10 - June 15 - Elevation plot
Day 10 – June 15 – Elevation plot
Sofie Written by:

dreamer - traveller - citizen of Enduristan

When I'm not out there discovering the world on my motorbike, you can find me crouched on the sofa dreaming of far away destinations in travel guides, blogs and maps.